The only thing missing from this Mojo Hand is a stiff drink

I worked in West Town when I first moved to Chicago, and there’s still something endearing to me about an industrial area that smells overwhelmingly of chocolate—it’s like some apocalyptic version of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. The Paramount Room, which opened a little over a year ago, fits perfectly in this surreal setting. The first thing you see walking in the door is a bank of creepy, voodoo-inspired paintings by local artist Brian Cunningham featuring robots, skulls, and demons. Venture deeper into the bar and you’ll find a labyrinthine subterranean level (the bar was built on the spot of a Prohibition Era speakeasy) with deep indigo walls and high-walled maroon leather booths.
 
The Paramount Room is perhaps best known for its “$10 burger and a pint” special—a 1/2-pound wagyu burger served with a pint from their “no crap on tap” selection of craft beers. The food is extraordinary thanks to chef-owner Stephen Dunne of Roscoe Village wine bar Volo, and Paramount sports a fantastic list of beers, cocktails and wines. The kitchen stays open until 1 a.m. on weekends, offering a much-needed late-night alternative to greasy diner food. Steak tartare at midnight, anyone?  Ale-steamed mussels? I was lucky enough to stop by on a Wednesday for “Amish Fried Chicken Night” to feast on Amish chicken breaded in panko and cornflakes, with mashed potatoes and gravy on the side. 

Although The Paramount Room offers a substantial wine list (bar manager Shawn Koch is a level one sommelier), beer gets the most attention. A grinning garden gnome perches on top of the bar, a gift from Belgian brewery Brasserie d'Achouffe, which produces La Chouffe spiced Belgian ale (La Chouffe is French for gnome). The Paramount Room keeps 12 varieties of craft and microbrew ales on tap, with the selection changing on a regular basis. On the day I visited, the list included personal favorites Surly Cynic Ale, 3 Floyds Moloko Milk Stout, and Goose Island Matilda. Can’t make up your mind what to drink? Try the $7 beer flight of the day.

The Paramount Room’s signature cocktail menu is also worth checking out. Many of Chicago’s best mixologists began as sommeliers, and Shawn Koch is no exception. Shawn uses artisanal spirits and homemade bitters in unusual creations, including the “Green Ginger” (Wasabi sake liqueur, fresh ginger, cucumber, kumquat bitters) and “Tasse de Fleurs” (Elderflower liqueur, orange blossom water, Cremant d’Alsace). And if the smells from Blommer’s chocolate factory across the street has you craving sweets, you can try the black-and-tan float made with Guinness ice cream and Abita root beer.

The Paramount Room, 415 N Milwaukee Ave., 312-829-6300, Mon.-Wed., 3 p.m.-2 a.m., Thurs.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m., Sat., 11 a.m.-3 a.m., Sun, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Want more from Behind the Bar? Follow Bianca James on Twitter!