Viet Bistro's Rashed Islam admires his canteloupe, cactus pear, and jackfruit cocktails from afar.

I first learned of Viet Bistro mixologist Rashed Islam through his legendary Nicotini—a liquid response to Chicago’s smoking ban. Islam steeps European tobacco in sugar cane juice to create a nicotine-laced syrup, then mixes it with pear juice. The result is a pleasantly mild cocktail that creates a tingle on the tongue and a mild headrush. “Nicotine is quickly absorbed into the blood and more addictive than heroin,” Islam told me. I’m not a smoker, but I might be getting hooked on Rashed’s concoctions.

Metromix recently named Islam one of Chicago’s ten best bartenders, though he prefers the term “mixologist.” I say he’s earned the title: He started as a sommelier in 1997 before turning his sights to cocktails six years later. Rashed uses fresh juices, artisanal spirits (local favorite North Shore Distillery in particular), and unusual ingredients like cracked pepper to craft his exotic, inventive drinks. The Hypnotique Breeze, a mixture of pulpy jackfruit, pineapple, vodka and North Shore Sirene Absinthe, is not for everyone—it’s a sweet-spicy-savory combination with a flavor profile that is oddly reminiscent of certain Indian dishes, and quite possibly the most interesting cocktail I’ve tried this year. Islam highlights another North Shore favorite, the Alphonso Mango No. 11, in the Mango Breeze, a brunchy cocktail that puts the Bellini to shame.  Islam mixes the mango-infused gin with Indian mango nectar, garnishes it with a piece of candied mango, and tops it off with a splash of sparkling white wine. (Don’t call it champagne in front of a sommelier unless it’s actually from Champagne!)

Islam currently serves up his creations at Viet Bistro, a French-Vietnamese restaurant and lounge near Devon and Broadway, from the owners of Pasteur. His complex cocktails are a perfect complement to the delicately spicy food the restaurant serves; I highly recommend the spicy beef noodle soup paired with the tamarind and lemongrass cocktail, garnished with cracked black pepper.

Want to taste the magic for yourself? Check out Islam’s poetry slam at Viet Bistro on September 10—the $15 cover includes two cocktails and an appetizer.  Selected martinis are also half off on Wednesdays and Thursdays.

Viet Bistro, 1344 W Devon Ave, 773-878-1061, Sun.-Thurs., 5-10:30 p.m., Fri.-Sat., 5 p.m.-midnight, lunch served Fri.-Sun., 12-3 p.m. Want more from Behind the Bar? Follow Bianca James on Twitter!