Want more from Behind the Bar? Follow Bianca James on Twitter!

Growing up near the Napa Valley, I developed an early appreciation for wine after quickly outgrowing my taste for Boone’s Farm, which, despite the label, isn’t actually wine at all. I’m no Alpana Singh, however. I come from the school of hard knocks--the wine aisle of Trader Joe’s--and all I know is that I prefer reds to whites (I associate Chardonnay with yuppies and yacht rock) and that any bottle of wine under $6 is probably not palatable unless it’s the base for a sangria.

Drinking wine is often viewed an expensive and intimidating pursuit, but it shouldn’t have to be. I make regular trips to Andersonville to satisfy my cravings for organic coffee and Sicilian pastries, and was delighted to discover that In Fine Spirits--the Chicago Reader's pick for Best Wine Bar--had recently opened a lounge next door. What better way to try a wine before committing to a full bottle?

The lounge takes the guesswork out of oenophilia by offering a tremendous selection, both by the glass and in flights selected by varietal and region. The phonebook-thick list is made less intimidating by the tasting notes, written in a light-hearted, approachable voice--who knew tannins could be chewy?--and helpful staffers who have sampled everything the bar has to offer. (Jealous!) Connoisseurs looking to sharpen their wine and cocktail chops can check out the affordable classes in appreciation and mixology offered in the spacious, well-lit classroom upstairs.

Although the primary emphasis is on wine, In Fine Spirits also offers a delectable selection of craft beers, side plates, cheeses and charcuterie, and an enticing array of classic cocktails prepared with artisanal spirits and mixers, such as Sidecars, Sazeracs and Capirinhas. I was seduced by the purple glow of the “Attention,” mixed from a pre-Prohibition Era recipe using Broker’s Premium Dry Gin, “La Muse Verte” Pastis, and Crème de Violette, a romantic liqueur that has the same delicate fragrance as the French perfume I wear. Those seeking a truly retro experience can order a glass of locally produced Sirène Absinthe (legalized in the U.S. in 2007), served with a slotted spoon, sugar cube and special water drip fountains imported from Switzerland.

If you’re not a wine lover when you walk through the doors at In Fine Spirits, you will be by the time you leave.

In Fine Spirits, 5420 N. Clark Street, 773-334-9463 or infinespirits.com. 4 p.m.-midnight, Tues.-Thurs., 3 p.m.-1 a.m., FrI.-Sat., 3 p.m.-midnight Sun., closed Mon.